I got my new high quality Wiremold 6 green-dot-outlet strip. I ordered online Monday afternoon, and it arrived on Tuesday. Now that's FAST! I've always enjoyed good service from Mouser. Back when I lived in San Diego, there was a Mouser warehouse in nearby Santee. Now I usually get items shipped from the Mouser warehouse in Dallas. One "downside" is that I have to pay sales tax. Actually, that's an upside. "Every purchase supports services provided to working people in Texas."
I'm re-arranging the Belkin power conditioner connections so that the 2 high current outlets both connect to subwoofers (they need it, and the subs have interference-immune and interference-causing switching power supplies anyway, I believe). The Acurus A250 could use comparable power, but since it is only powering tweeters at expected levels well below 20 watts, it is now on the "audio" filter bank. The satellite line powers only low power gizmos like the MSB PAD-1 and the Kenwood KT-6040, so it is being connected to the "audio" filter bank (as it has been in past). I think it's important that this line get fully conditioned rather than "high current" AC power. I'm not totally sure about this, but it seems like the Belkin might not have the PI filter (two caps and one choke) on the high current line. It's not clear if the high current line gets much more than surge suppression.
While messing with the tangle of cords behind the Belkin (how come it seems I spend most of my life untangling something or other) I noticed that the Belkin itself has a low pitched hum, possibly resulting from scads of inductor-based filters. That contributed a small, but probably unmeasureable proportion to my measurements of the Oppo fan noise.
It seems like every audio system I've put together in the last 30 years quickly uses up all available outlets. This makes non-audiophiles nervous, but the combined draw of all the low power gizmos (and often endless AC adapters) usually adds up to less than one ampere. It's the power amplifiers (like the Parasound HCA-1500A which currently powers my acoustats) that *can* have an actual high current draw on musical peaks, but even they (except for the Krell) typically draw less than one ampere. An electric heater continuously draws 15A while operating. BIG DIFFERENCE.
(Now the Krell can have draws comparable to electric heater. That is one reason the Krell is always plugged straight into the wall socket for my dedicated audio circuit, never into any kind of conditioner or outlet strip. Currently, the Krell is waiting for disassembly, analysis, and shipping back to Krell for repair, see earlier posts. Hopefully now that I have whole house surge protection, I'll have fewer failures like this.)
This is verifiable, all three of my main systems have current readout. Currently bedroom and kitchen systems use Monster Power 2000A which give voltage and current readout. The living room has Belkin with same information on a cool looking blue screen.
Now, in principle, any one of these gizmos could have an electrical short. If so, the 13A breaker on the Belkin will trip (and if not, ultimately the 20A breaker on the outside panel). To make this possible, all cords connected to the Belkin should be at least 16gauge, even if they are only connected to power adapters. The Belkin's cord is 12 gauge.
If there is an electrical short in one gizmo, the fact that so many other gizmos are connected is in some way irrelevant, *that* item would have shorted anyway even if it had been the only thing connected, and the same outcome should occur. There is a minor problem that as more things are connected, the possibility of failure rises. But the same would be true if I simply had a larger home, with all the gizmos more spread out into different rooms and each plugged into wall outlets.
One affect of yesterday's rewiring is that *all* audio components, including subwoofer, are on the dedicated Audio circuit (which is very quiet compared with normal circuits in my house which are VERY noisy).
Happened to notice that the copyright date on the MSB PAD-1 board is 1998. That's funny, I thought it was much later generation technology. MSB provides an interesting white paper on Jitter written in 2007 featuring the PAD-1. Based on the results shown there (the PAD-1 technically trashes a professional ADC), I think the PAD-1 is sufficiently good for digitizing most single-ended sources like the Kenwood KT6040. Only if I need to do exacting comparison (like Denon 5900 vs Oppo BDP-95) would I need to use my best ADC, the Lavry AD10, on both.
I'm re-arranging the Belkin power conditioner connections so that the 2 high current outlets both connect to subwoofers (they need it, and the subs have interference-immune and interference-causing switching power supplies anyway, I believe). The Acurus A250 could use comparable power, but since it is only powering tweeters at expected levels well below 20 watts, it is now on the "audio" filter bank. The satellite line powers only low power gizmos like the MSB PAD-1 and the Kenwood KT-6040, so it is being connected to the "audio" filter bank (as it has been in past). I think it's important that this line get fully conditioned rather than "high current" AC power. I'm not totally sure about this, but it seems like the Belkin might not have the PI filter (two caps and one choke) on the high current line. It's not clear if the high current line gets much more than surge suppression.
While messing with the tangle of cords behind the Belkin (how come it seems I spend most of my life untangling something or other) I noticed that the Belkin itself has a low pitched hum, possibly resulting from scads of inductor-based filters. That contributed a small, but probably unmeasureable proportion to my measurements of the Oppo fan noise.
It seems like every audio system I've put together in the last 30 years quickly uses up all available outlets. This makes non-audiophiles nervous, but the combined draw of all the low power gizmos (and often endless AC adapters) usually adds up to less than one ampere. It's the power amplifiers (like the Parasound HCA-1500A which currently powers my acoustats) that *can* have an actual high current draw on musical peaks, but even they (except for the Krell) typically draw less than one ampere. An electric heater continuously draws 15A while operating. BIG DIFFERENCE.
(Now the Krell can have draws comparable to electric heater. That is one reason the Krell is always plugged straight into the wall socket for my dedicated audio circuit, never into any kind of conditioner or outlet strip. Currently, the Krell is waiting for disassembly, analysis, and shipping back to Krell for repair, see earlier posts. Hopefully now that I have whole house surge protection, I'll have fewer failures like this.)
This is verifiable, all three of my main systems have current readout. Currently bedroom and kitchen systems use Monster Power 2000A which give voltage and current readout. The living room has Belkin with same information on a cool looking blue screen.
Now, in principle, any one of these gizmos could have an electrical short. If so, the 13A breaker on the Belkin will trip (and if not, ultimately the 20A breaker on the outside panel). To make this possible, all cords connected to the Belkin should be at least 16gauge, even if they are only connected to power adapters. The Belkin's cord is 12 gauge.
If there is an electrical short in one gizmo, the fact that so many other gizmos are connected is in some way irrelevant, *that* item would have shorted anyway even if it had been the only thing connected, and the same outcome should occur. There is a minor problem that as more things are connected, the possibility of failure rises. But the same would be true if I simply had a larger home, with all the gizmos more spread out into different rooms and each plugged into wall outlets.
One affect of yesterday's rewiring is that *all* audio components, including subwoofer, are on the dedicated Audio circuit (which is very quiet compared with normal circuits in my house which are VERY noisy).
Happened to notice that the copyright date on the MSB PAD-1 board is 1998. That's funny, I thought it was much later generation technology. MSB provides an interesting white paper on Jitter written in 2007 featuring the PAD-1. Based on the results shown there (the PAD-1 technically trashes a professional ADC), I think the PAD-1 is sufficiently good for digitizing most single-ended sources like the Kenwood KT6040. Only if I need to do exacting comparison (like Denon 5900 vs Oppo BDP-95) would I need to use my best ADC, the Lavry AD10, on both.
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